’E Curti is a small, superb osteria in a city known as Sant’Anastasia, which is perched on the slopes of Vesuvius about 13km north-east of Naples. We made a detour and stopped there two summers in the past, because of the trusty Sluggish Meals osteria information (though no because of my navigating). One of many specialities at ’E Curti is spaghetti with dried nuts and fruit, capers, olives, herbs and a neighborhood number of tomatoes known as pomodori piennoli. The dish took place as a manner of utilizing up the dried fruit and nuts left over from Christmas, and its title, ’O sicchje ra munnezza, is a humorous nod to this resourcefulness – ’O sicchje which means “bin” and ra munnezza “garbage” in Neapolitan dialect.
Such joking is feasible solely in case you are assured of how good one thing is. And the mixture of tomatoes collapsed in extra-virgin olive oil and the feel from the varied nuts, the slight sweetness from the fruit and the defiantly savoury capers and olives, all held in a twisted web of spaghetti, is extraordinarily good. Which is in no small half as a result of native olive oil and flavour of the pomodori piennoli, notably as a result of they are often hung and stored for months, wrinkling and growing in richness. That stated, it’s completely a dish that may be recreated with different tomatoes, particularly candy cherry or datterini tomatoes, and even tinned plum tomatoes (that you simply just like the style of) drained of their juice. Having the ability to recreate that is additionally because of a recipe instantly from ’E Curti itself that’s fantastic in its specificity, suggesting (amongst different substances): 16 pine nuts, 10 raisins, 18 capers, eight olives, half a kilo of tomatoes and 1kg spaghetti for eight folks.
Studying the recipe, I used to be reminded of a pal and prepare dinner who as soon as gave me a recipe for doughnuts wherein he specified the exact quantity, in grams, of jam to be syringed into every one. Proportions for pleasure, he famous. I had by no means recognized him to be something like so particular, so I knew it should be vital. And he was proper – they have been proportions for pleasure. It’s the similar with this recipe for ’O sicchje ra munnezza: the substances might sound modest, however they work. And keep in mind, they aren’t a lot an encompassing sauce, however a well-flavoured, well-balanced condiment to go together with spaghetti; search for a good-quality model of pasta, extruded via bronze, so it has the feel of most interesting sandpaper.
In fact, you may determine your proportions for pleasure are wildly totally different from these famous right here. You may want 15 raisins as an alternative of 5, say, or to measure your capers by the handful – you understand your substances and your individual style. Don’t, although, skimp on the extra-virgin olive oil: it’s the basis of the recipe. Use the most effective bottle you’ve gotten and ensure to maintain checking that the flame below the pan just isn’t too excessive. A gentle sizzle brings out the most effective in these substances, even when they’re garbage.
Garbage spaghetti – ’O sicchje ra munnezza
Prep 15 min
Prepare dinner 10 min
Serves 4
6-8 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 small garlic clove, peeled and crushed gently, so it’s break up however nonetheless complete
1 tbsp raisins, soaked in heat water for 10 minutes
35g walnuts, roughly chopped
35g hazelnuts, roughly chopped
8 pine nuts
9 capers
250g cherry tomatoes, roughly chopped
A pinch of dried oregano
4 stoned olives, roughly chopped
A small handful of parsley, minced
400g spaghetti
Convey a big pan of water to a boil for the spaghetti. In a big frying pan set over a medium-low warmth, heat the oil and garlic for a few minutes, then add the drained raisins, chopped nuts, pine nuts and capers, and let every little thing prepare dinner gently for a couple of minutes.
Add the tomatoes, elevate the warmth so that they sizzle for 4 to 5 minutes, then add the oregano, olives and parsley. Stir, then take the pan off the warmth and canopy.
Salt the pasta water, stir, add the spaghetti and boil till al dente. As soon as it’s prepared, drain the spaghetti or – higher nonetheless – use a spider sieve to carry it instantly into the sauce. Toss vigorously and serve instantly.
